N: We decided to fly to Seville, our next stop, as it is too far to schlep by train, but the flight was not until the early evening. Seville is actually the same distance as Paris from Barcelona. We decided to explore the Barcelona seaport by daylight. This included taking the elevator to the top of the Columbus Monument at the base of the Ramblas—an odd memorial since Columbus' discovery led to a long hibernation of the city. We had a few tapas at a restaurant on the shopping pier and wander slowly back up the Ramblas to take the bus to the airport.

Flying RyanAir was not a pleasant experience. While the flight itself was simple enough, check-in was fraught with anxiety caused by silly baggage restrictions and ridiculous overweight charges. While we escaped with no penalties, ìescape” describes it. That, Nick's unprecedented nosebleed on the boarding line, and the attendants trying to sell things to the passengers from water to future flights further declined the flight experience.

In Seville, the airport shuttle bus oddly left us a full 3/4 mile from the city center and the GPS planted us on a side street next to the hotel. Not realizing we were standing right next to it, we called them. They thought we were in the next town instead of next door, to add to the confusion. But that was resolved quickly.

The four star hotel, Las Casas de la Juderia, has to rate as one of the most fascinating hotel experiences in all our travels. Its 170 rooms consisted of the former apartments of a dozen or more buildings in the old and historic Jewish Quarter of Seville. They are connected by a bewildering array of paths and tunnels over several acres, all like an ancient walled city. A three or four minute convoluted walk led from Reception to our room—9 rights, 7 lefts and an elevator. We had to be led in twice and we took photos along the route until we could find our breathtaking room unaided. The path led though open courtyards exposed to sun, moon and rain, millstones imbedded in the walls, and ancient columns and fountains lining the walkways. Our medieval room was decorated with taste and love. The hotel is an ongoing project as they acquire new apartments to the complex and expand the labyrinth to accommodate them.

That evening, very tired, we ate in Taberna la Sal, a restaurant that specialized in tuna recipes, recommended by the hotel. It was the only meal of the trip that we rated as mediocre.

B: Outside the airport, there was a sign saying "BUS," so we got on the line to wait for it. In a few minutes we were on a bus in a strange city hoping it would take us to our hotel. How we would know when the bus had reached our stop? When there were just a few of us left on the bus and it stopped moving, one of the other passengers said we were at the last stop.

The hotel was unforgettable. I recommend it. The restaurant Taberna la Sal was forgettable. We ordered cava, a Spanish sparkling wine with our meal, but like our meal, it had very little sparkle.